DENALI PowerHub2 fuse block master ground block and wiring harness.

ELC.00.30000
  • DENALI PowerHub2 fuse block master ground block and wiring harness.
  • elc.00.30000_003sm
  • elc.00.30000_001sm
  • elc.00.30000_002sm
  • powerhub2wired_web
  • DENALI PowerHub2 fuse block master ground block and wiring harness.
  • elc.00.30000_003sm
  • elc.00.30000_001sm
  • elc.00.30000_002sm
  • powerhub2wired_web

Description

Made in America!

The PowerHub2 Power Distribution Module manufactured by DENALI allows you to safely connect up to 6 electronic devices to your motorcycle in a clean professional manner. It is CAN-Bus compatible and includes six 15-amp rated and fused outputs six ground posts and a plug-and-play wiring harness for direct battery hookup. Each of the six outputs can be individually set as... read more

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Product Documents

Brand:
SKU:
ELC.00.30000
Categories:
,
Brand:
DENALI Electronics
Weight:
0.7 lbs
Dimensions:
3 × 5 × 7 in
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Brand:

Price

$169.99 USD

Quantity

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Total

$169.99 USD

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Description

Made in America!

The PowerHub2 Power Distribution Module manufactured by DENALI allows you to safely connect up to 6 electronic devices to your motorcycle in a clean professional manner. It is CAN-Bus compatible and includes six 15-amp rated and fused outputs six ground posts and a plug-and-play wiring harness for direct battery hookup. Each of the six outputs can be individually set as “always on” or “switched” on/off with the ignition of the motorcycle. Instead of attaching multiple ring terminals to your battery use a PowerHub2!

The CAN-bus safe DENALI PowerHub2 has been designed to allow simple and easy installation of electrical components. Each unit has six individually fused outputs. These are not your ordinary outputs. Simply plug the fuse in to the left or the right on the circuit board to make the accessory live all of the time or switched on/off with the bike’s ignition.

The entire unit is rated for 30 Amps (360 watts). Each of the six circuits can handle up to 15A (180W) each – without exceeding a total sum of 30 Amps simultaneously. 

When installing the PowerHub2 on BMW CAN-Bus equipped motorcycles use either the 194 Marker Bulb CAN-Bus adapter available separately or tap the original BMW power socket hot wire.

Features:

  • Replaceable 30-amp Tyco/Bosch micro relay
  • Water resistant
  • Compact
  • Durable
  • Choose between switched and constant power
  • Can be connected to a battery charger (be sure to set that circuit for continuous power)

Specs:

  • Dimensions: 3in L x 4in W x 1in H
  • 6 circuits can handle up to 15 amps (180W) each
  • CANbus-compatible
  • 60-inch-long 10-gauge wiring harness with Posi-lock connector

What’s in the Box:

  • PowerHub2 fuse block
  • 2 ring terminals
  • Wiring harness for connecting PowerHub2 to battery (includes switched “trigger” wire with Posi-tap connector)
  • Self-adhesive hook and loop pad for providing a quick-release attachment method for connecting the PowerHub2 to a flat surface

Note: Mini ATM fuses are not included. An assortment of mini ATM fuses is available here . Replacement 30-amp relay available here.

Note: The PowerHub2 is compatible with CANbus motorcycles using either the Electrical Connection 194 Marker Bulb CAN-BUS Adapter (available separately) by connecting the PowerHub2’s switched yellow wire to the original BMW power socket hot wire. Then connect the Powerhub’s black and red wires directly to the battery.

How do I convert watts to amps? Amps to watts? Watts = Volts x Amps. Most motorcycles run at 12 Volts so the equation becomes Watts = 12 x Amps. Amps = Watts/12. Use this calculator to help convert watts to amps (or amps to watts). Fill in any 2 fields and hit submit for the result. Power is measured in watts. Current is measured in amps. Fuses are rated in amps. Accessories generally give their power or current rating.

We found this table handy with our own wiring projects; use it as a guide for sizing accessory wire on your motorcycle. When on the border line always use a lower gauge number (larger wire) than specified in this chart.

Wire Gauge Selection Table 12 Volt Circuit

AMPS 3′ 5′ 7′ 10′ 15′ 20′ 25′
0 to 5 18 18 18 18 18 18 18
6 18 18 18 18 18 18 18
7 18 18 18 18 18 18 18
8 18 18 18 18 18 16 16
10 18 18 18 18 16 16 16
11 18 18 18 18 16 16 14
12 18 18 18 18 16 16 14
15 18 18 18 18 14 14 12
18 18 18 16 16 14 14 12
20 18 18 16 16 14 12 10
22 18 18 16 16 12 12 10
24 18 18 16 16 12 12 10
30 18 16 16 14 10 10 10

Part Numbers

Our part number: ELC.00.30000
Replaces these SKUs: ELC.00.20000
Manufacturer part number: ELC.00.30000

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Reviews (62)

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3.84 out of 5 stars

62 reviews

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What others are saying

  1. gbs77904

    negative wire was toast in one year

    gbs77904

    I bought this about 1 year ago from Twisted Throttle. The negative ground that attached to the battery just broke off with the wires turning into dusk. Not sure why but not a good result.

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  2. Pete

    Better than other fuse blocks, but...

    Pete

    The unit functions well, but by the time I ran my third wire thru the narrow opening it was a VERY tight fit. There is simply no way I could use all six circuits so I’m lucky I needed only four. Also, the elastic bands holding the lid in place won’t last. Another means of protecting the innards is needed. Next time I’ll go with a PDM

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  3. Nick71

    Power hub 2

    Nick71

    Its been installed on my crf 250 l for a few weeks now. I have some aux lights and a usb charger attached to it so far. Works great and instal was a breeze.

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  4. Murph

    Not well suited for 2016 R1200 GSA

    Murph

    I was hoping this was going to be the solution for all of my electrical accessories on my 2016 BMW R1200 GSA but unfortunately after installing the fuse box under my seat I realized there wasn’t fit with the seat on.

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  5. Riley

    Easy to use

    Riley

    Bought this for accessory wiring on my motorcycle. Plenty of high grade positive and negative cable for installation. I like the fact that you can select constant power or switched power from the fuse block. This made wiring the accessories much easier. I would like to see a larger opening in the case to run wires to the connections. If you need to use larger wires it takes up the opening space to the fuse block pretty quickly but it is manageable. I would also like to see a better option for securing the lid to the fuse block other than the elastic bands. Overall a very good unit.

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  6. none

    very easy to install

    none

    This unit is way better then the PDM 60 that I replaced it with, the PDM 60 had a Prasitic draw, that would kill the battery if not on a tender, plus it would lose it’s program any time the battery did die, that meant un-wiring it, removing it from the bike so you could reprogram it, again!
    The Denali is so much simpler and cleaner.

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  7. steve32

    High Quality

    steve32

    Easy to install and totally cleaned up my wiring Spiderman Mess!

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  8. ebolton

    Some issues

    ebolton

    The idea is great. The size is pretty good- I was able to fit it under the seat on my wife’s Bonneville, which is no easy task. It isn’t perfect, though.

    First, the terminals it came with for the battery are nowhere near big enough to crimp onto the power leads that are integral to the unit, which are amply sized and nicely flexible. Fortunately, I had some terminals that were of the proper size.

    Second, the fuse terminals are way to wimpy. I appreciate using the minifuses keeps the overall size down, but those terminals just aren’t strong enough.

    Finally, the terminal blocks just aren’t big enough. I had 14ga wires from the fist accessory I tied to it, and they didn’t really fit. Those terminals are only good for 16ga and smaller I think. Even 16 might be tough.

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  9. jasl

    jasl

    I bought this product a couple of months ago, install was very easy and no issues to report.

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  10. Gerònimo

    A good solution

    Gerònimo

    This is a great way to install accessories without messing with the oem harness. The only thing that needs to be improved, is the way the cover is attached, otherwise I’d give it 5 stars.

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  11. Jeff

    Works and Easy to install

    Jeff

    Works as advertised.
    Easy to install, easy to use.

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  12. tenbrad

    Just Okay

    tenbrad

    I bought that 2 months ago to help with wiring auxiliary lights, GPS, and other items I run on my 2014 Honda VFR800. It works, but not as seamlessly as I hoped. Fusing as always on, or on with key is the only bright side. Wiring other items isn’t quite as simple as it should be.

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  13. San Fran XR

    Denali Powerhub2

    San Fran XR

    The Denali Powerhub2 is such a great product for canbus motorcycles. I had been using the Touratech Canbus helper on my past 4 motorcycles which worked well. The Denali Powerhub2 goes to the next level with the cover to keep things dry, the switched on and off power and the fuse blocks for each component. No need to chase the inline fuse all over the motorcycle to see which one might be blown. Highly recommended for any canbus or even non canbus motorcycles. If you want to have a neat a clean set up for your farkles, this is the way to go.

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  14. Crew Chief

    Nice little box

    Crew Chief

    This is a nice and simple distribution box. I was concerned about using some of the more advanced tech units on an adventure bike. I will take this to remote places and I didn’t want to be stuck with an electronic piece that I couldn’t do much with if it had problems. With this item, if the relay fails I can replace it. I can also use jumper wire to transfer power in a pinch. It’s simple enough though that I doubt I’d ever have trouble with it. It also made for a clean install.

    The unit is small, and it needs to be because some of these bikes just don’t have much room to mount stuff. The wiring area is tight, but I have 1 14ga circuit and 3 16ga circuits in it using plain primary wire with thick insulation. I’ll be able to add more without too much trouble. I only brought one ground wire back to the box. I remote grounded the other circuits and that makes for more room. If your concerned about space, use TXL or Shindy wire. They have smaller insulation cross sections and are both used by OEM’s.

    Some folks complained about the rubber band to hold the cover on. I kinda like it. I can always find a rubber band. Lastly they include a piece of 3M material that works like Velcro to attach this to the bike. It’s the first time I’ve worked with it and I really like it. It’s tough stuff. I’ll be buying and keeping some around.

    It’s not 5 stars because few things are perfect.

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  15. Cape1290ADV

    Easy and simple solution for all your accessories

    Cape1290ADV

    The box itself is very easy and straight forward to install. It was easily wired to the battery and the switched power source was tapped into my plate light as it switches upon ignition. I was able to wire my GPS harness to the box, and all you have to do is cut just past the fuse of the original harness of whatever you’re installing, take the fuse that came with it (in my case a 2A fuse) and place the fuse into the box and decide whether you want switched or constant power, strip the positive and negative wires and screw them into the corresponding terminals. I’ve never been happier and adding accessories will only get easier!

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  16. Tool fool

    Nice Unit

    Tool fool

    I just finished installing this into my 13 V-Strom, very nice unit. Allows installation of several circuits without having to find places for multiple relays and fuses all over the place. The wire quality is excellent and the bus appears to be well made. Fuse plug ins are pretty tight which is great for connection purposes but it’s a bugger to pull fuses out. I also found the cheap auto parts fuses are a touch too tall and the lid won’t quite close completely. The higher quality fuses were a perfect fit.

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  17. Cloclo

    Flimsy construction

    Cloclo

    I bought this fuse block for my new, 2016 BMW F700GS. I also bought a pack of mini fuses. Installation was easy. When I tried to press in one fuse, it would not go in and the glue holding the electronic card broke. Make sure you open up the clips holding the fuses before you try pressing them in place. The elastic band holding the cover is a poor improvisation. I tucked everything under my bike’s computer, located under the seat. It works! IMHO, this is too much money for the quality you’d expect.

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  18. DRONE

    It's no FZ-1!

    DRONE

    I installed this in my BMW R1100GS. I’m not a beginner and I must say that for $130 I’m disappointed with this product. Others have already talked about the lid being held in place by flimsy rubber o-rings so I won’t mention that. Here are my crits–(1) the fuse terminals are so tight that even after greasing up my fuses I could barely get the fuses seated and I’m pretty sure I heard the circuit board crack at one point as I was pressing a fuse into place. Want to get a fuse out? Better have some needle nose pliers because they’re not coming out using just your fingers! (2) Others have talked about the lack of space inside the box. I was able to connect 6 lines with 16AWG wire, BUT only the hot lines–no room for the grounds. I grounded all 6 lines outside the box to the frame. (3) my last crit–the relay inside the box gets hot even with all my devices turned off! That’s right–the relay gets hot simply by turning on the power. Not confidence-inspiring.

    Anything I liked? Yes. (1) the ground wire, power wire, and trigger wire are all plenty long enough and made from really really superior cabling; (2) the screw-down wire terminals inside the box seem sturdy and provide a secure clamping force on the wires so that I really doubt I’ll have any problem with wires coming loose.

    I want to add one comment about using 16AWG wire. I use 16 gauge on my bikes NOT because I need that much current carrying capability. Most devices will run fine with 20 or 22 gauge. I use 16 gauge for the physical strength of the wire and the thickness of the insulation. 16 is not gonna break easily, I can cinch it down tight with cable ties, and if it’s rubbing somewhere (I try to safeguard against that on all my installs) it’ll take a long time to wear away the insulation. 20 or 22 gauge simply is not strong enough to use on an offroad bike. 18? Borderline.

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  19. DRONE

    It's no FZ-1!

    DRONE

    I installed this in my BMW R1100GS. I’m not a beginner and I must say that for $130 I’m disappointed with this product. Others have already talked about the lid being held in place by flimsy rubber o-rings so I won’t mention that. Here are my crits–(1) the fuse terminals are so tight that even after greasing up my fuses I could barely get the fuses seated and I’m pretty sure I heard the circuit board crack at one point as I was pressing a fuse into place. Want to get a fuse out? Better have some needle nose pliers because they’re not coming out using just your fingers! (2) Others have talked about the lack of space inside the box. I was able to connect 6 lines with 16AWG wire, BUT only the hot lines–no room for the grounds. I grounded all 6 lines outside the box to the frame. (3) my last crit–the relay inside the box gets hot even with all my devices turned off! That’s right–the relay gets hot simply by turning on the power. Not confidence-inspiring.

    Anything I liked? Yes. (1) the ground wire, power wire, and trigger wire are all plenty long enough and made from really really superior cabling; (2) the screw-down wire terminals inside the box seem sturdy and provide a secure clamping force on the wires so that I really doubt I’ll have any problem with wires coming loose.

    I want to add one comment about using 16AWG wire. I use 16 gauge on my bikes NOT because I need that much current carrying capability. Most devices will run fine with 20 or 22 gauge. I use 16 gauge for the physical strength of the wire and the thickness of the insulation. 16 is not gonna break easily, I can cinch it down tight with cable ties, and if it’s rubbing somewhere (I try to safeguard against that on all my installs) it’ll take a long time to wear away the insulation. 20 or 22 gauge simply is not strong enough to use on an offroad bike. 18? Borderline.

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  20. Davemon

    Newly installed and only lightly test but great so

    Davemon

    Easy install, quality components, everything you need is already in the bag. It’s not cheap but it is a great kit. Worth it to me even if not to some others. Unless it fails (And it it looks really well built so I have high hopes) it’s a solid deal in my eyes.

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  21. treaurediver69

    Solid construction but a bit larger than expected.

    treaurediver69

    It’s a good design and wires are large gauge but still easily menuverable. Space is tight under the seat of my vfr800 so mounting will be difficult but not impossible.

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  22. foz

    Works fine, fuses need adjustments

    foz

    I wrote a review on the fuses I ordered at the same time for the powerhub2. I’m not sure if it’s the fuses or the holders in the Powerhub, but they don’t fit. I’ll try some others when I get a chance. In the meantime I had to grind down the fuses to get them to fit. Otherwise the unit is great. Using it for my F700GS. It fits right behind the battery and is a great way to hook up skene lights, a battery tender outlet, spotlights and heated gear.

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